| | Toerail repairs - 2008/07/07 10:10
Hi all,
We bought our 1973 Rogers Co26 Whisper end of last year and on sailing her we notice the toerail mounted genoa tracks were lifting the whole toerail off - something obviously amiss with the toerail attachment! Just wondered how the rails are supposed to be fastened on, and if anyone else had repaired/replaced them and had any advice, so we can plan repairs...any advice welcome.
Cheers,
Luke
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| | Re:Toerail repairs - 2008/07/08 00:34
Did the same job on Skirmish last winter - will post full description ASAP!
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| | Re:Toerail repairs - 2008/07/08 21:44
OK Here goes - email me if not clear.
Presuming the teak toe-rail is still intact and attached?:
Assuming you have the original S/Steel track with mutiple screw hole approx 2" apart?:
the bolts at each end unscrew - can be very difficult to get out be patient and don't crack the hull or sheer the bolt head!! These act a stops for the genoa car.
carefully remove all the screws and remove the track. Clean up the screws, tracks and cars in parafin or white spirit - or if the screws are damaged/missing repalce with new S/Steel screws - I think they are about 35mm long or 1.5".
Clean out all the drilled holes as deep as possible with wite spirit and piece of coat hangar wire, fine rat tail file or small wire bottle brush.
once holes dry fill each with Sika Flex sealant/adhesive and reposition Track.
Replace screws but only tighten losely - remove any surplus sika flex with a screwdriver/spirit soaked rag. You don't want dried gunge preventing the car from moving along the track.
Allow the Sikaflex to set hard (24hrs or more) then tighten the screws with correct screwdriver. You nust use countersenk screwheads or they will interfere with car sliding along track.
The same method for fixing the two end bolts.
If the actual teak toe-rail underneat h is damaged you will need a freindly carpenter and to buy replacement langth from Jeremy Rogers (I think it's £10 poer foot) JR ltsd will want a sample cf your old toerail so they can match the profile. They do not post it either so you wll have to make arrangements to collect from Lymington.
Final word of caution - be very careful if you decide to drill any new screw or bbolt holes into the hull - you must be absolutely at the right angle or you will pierce the side (in or out) of the hull - ouch!
Hope that helps? Cheers, Brad (Skirmish)
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| | Re:Toerail repairs - 2008/07/08 21:52
I see that it IS the toe rail coming off.
You stll need to refit the track to the new section of toe rail so previous instructions will be useful.
To replace toe rail I strongly recommend a friendly carpenter if you are not a wood work wizard.
The teak plugs over the screw heads need to be removed for the section you are going to replace. Usea small sharp chisel to reveal the screw head. Screws that can now be seen are removed and holes cleaned out as in previous reply.
New section is 'scarfed' in by carpenter (a diagonal cut at aeach end to match the diagonal cuts where old section was removed. nerw teak plugs are wood glued on top of screw heads and chiseled/sanded to match flat top profile of toe rail.
Sika flex to stick the ends and underside dwon and sikaflex in the toe rail screw holes as previous instructions for tightening screws.
All this is easier to do when boat out of water and you're able to work on step ladder - but I think it should e do-able whilst boat is still in water - with knee pads!
enjoy!
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| | Re:Toerail repairs - 2008/07/09 09:36
Dear Brad,
Thanks so much, that's all really useful to know! I appreciate you taking the time...
Cheers,
Luke
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| | Re:Toerail repairs - 2008/07/09 20:55
Pleasure - I am sure you may be able to return the favour sometime!
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